Apostle Islands Ice Caves

Although there has been a lot of press locally about Lake Superior freezing over for the first time in a generation, it was in The Guardian, of all places, that we read about the opportunity to reach the South Shore's coastal caves on foot.

A pair or hikers (left) provide a sense of scale

Normally the caves can only be reached by kayak in the summer months, but the long and thawless cold spell this winter has created an icy traverse, as well as exquisite ice formations. It has been 20 years since  the last full-freeze, and who knows when the next will occur.

An ice "stalagtite" hangs from a cave ceiling

It was heartening to see so many others brave the cold (-5F at dawn today) and long walk to witness this once in a lifetime event.

Hearty souls along the ice cliffs

Splakey Interlude

The original - ice fishing on Gunflint Lake

First photo of the puppet incarnation

The New Zealand version

The graphic representation

Joshua Tree, San Jacinto and Salton Sea

With Polar Vortex, part II finding its way across the upper Midwest, we decided to emulate our avian friends and fly south, this time to explore Joshua Tree National Park.

Mt Ryan, 5457 ft.

Situated along the edges of both Colorado and Mojave Desert biomes, the park boasts a variety of terrain. In addition to the usual peak-bagging, the Ranger gave us a great tip on a vigorous scramble up Rattlesnake Canyon, and the valleys were dotted with piles of boulders just begging to be climbed.

bouldering in Joshua Tree NP

the view Westward from Mt. Ryan

It was also interesting to encounter so many new plants and animals, from the iconic Joshua Tree (a few of which were already beginning to bloom) to the scrappy little cholla cactus.

Joshua Tree

Another brilliant hike is the 49 Palms Oasis at the north end of the park, which we began just at dawn. As the sun rose, the thermals carried the sweet smell of desert flowers while a plethora of birds, lizards and insects scurried around this little island of life.

 

49 Palms Oasis

chunky chuckwalla sunning

crossing paths with a circus beetle

side-blotched lizard, blue morph

side-blotched lizard

The drive we chose out of the park through the Little San Bernadino Mountains was, to say the least, challenging. So the following day we let the Palm Springs Arial Tram do most of the hard work up San Jacinto, and took a long walk through the fresh snows at the top.

Palm Springs Arial Tramway up San Jacinto

On our way back to Phoenix to catch the return flight home, we swung down to the Salton Sea, a veritable treasure-trove of birds. We also toured the "forests" of 100+ year old giant cacti at the Saguaro National Monument.

Saguaro, much bigger and older than you

Thousands of birds along the Salton Sea shoreline

Arizona Anniversary

Sonora Desert Museum

One of the advantages of working through the holidays, is you get to travel when the seasonal rush dies down a bit. This January is our 8th together, and perhaps we should call it our turquoise anniversary, as we spent it traveling around Eastern Arizona. 

West Fork, Sedona

We started, as we often do, with a bit of birding--starting in the Sonoran Desert and stopping for a great lunch in Tuscon en route to Ramsey Canyon, where we spent the first two days. We then headed up through the scenic Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest-- a drive as challenging as any in NZ-- ending up in Petrified Forest NP, the most pleasant surprise of the trip, and one we captured in a video hike (see previous post).

Ballooning in Sedona

Stopping for a bit of BBQ in Flagstaff, it was then on to Sedona, where we spent three glorious days hiking around (and ballooning above) the magnificent scenery.

Ballooning over the Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness Area,  Sedona

Boynton Canyon, Sedona

Bear Mountain Summit, Sedona

We spent the last couple of days recovering in Scotsdale, where we discovered some great restaurants, Barrio Queen and Cowboy Ciao.

Video Hike: Petrified Forest National Park

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Acadian Winter

A Winter New England Ramble

Kristen has been working at Acadia Hospital in Bangor for the past month, and after dropping her off at the peak of Autumn (see previous entry), Richard finally came back for a proper visit.


The Cape Neddick "Nubble" Lighthouse

We have many old friends in New England, and a spell of mild weather beckoned us to visit. We arrived Friday afternoon in Ogunquit, a scenic coastal town just south of better-known Kennebunk. After settling in at the Village 2 B&B, an old Victorian perched on a hill overlooking the town and ocean, we explored the Marginal Walk down to Perkins Cove, spotting eider, harlequins and great northern divers along the rocky coast as the day faded into evening.



Footbridge Beach, Ogunquit

 The next morning, after watching the sunrise and strolling the Ogunquit beach (a rarity in Maine), we headed down the coast toward Rye NH, just outside Portsmouth, where we caught up with Laura Hancock, our fellow chief from residency training (10 years ago, already!?).

 On the way, we stopped by Cape Neddick hoping to see one of the snowy owls that had irrupted down from Canada, but without any luck (unless one was hiding against the white lighthouse). We consoled ourselves with a couples massage and dinner at the Clay Hill Farm. Addendum: We found him! See the next post.


Perkins Cove, Ogunquit

The following morning it was off to visit a friend we had made back in New Zealand, Marshall Hatch, who was a gracious host. We not only climbed his maunga, but also met his future and past in-laws, the latter of whom, Barb and Don, shared tales from their West African travels over tea at dusk. I think this makes Marshall whanau now.


Mt. Piper summit

We arrived home, exhausted and happy, at 10 o'clock Sunday evening.


view of Lake Winnipesaukee from the fire tower atop Belknap Mountain

2013 Christmas Tanka

A thread, unspooling,

Then picking up stray stitches

Across place and time.

Together again!

A Down East Christmas carol.